During our time in Santa Marta, Colombia we decided to follow the not-to-be-missed advice in our Lonely Planet and visit the ´Lost City´ (ciudad perdida), an ancient ruined city hidden in the jungle, and only discovered in the 70s. The trek takes 6 days in total: 3 days up into the mountains (cannot be reached any other way), 1 day at the city itself, and then 2 days to get back to Santa Marta.
On the first day were up early to get the necessary passport photocopies. Lewis and I were still shedding skin like you wouldn´t believe from our sunburns. After meeting the rest of the group we would be doing the trek with we took a big ´fun-bus´, like a big jurassic park jeep, up towards the mountains until the road ran out. The drive itself was spectacular, as the big engine struggled in first gear to mount the dirt track that took us up, up into the mountains, skirting the peaks and valleys on top. The ocean was still visible in the distance behind us as we reach the tip of one peak. The view is now also very Jurassic Park, to match our truck. The lack of dinosaurs is made up for by the fact that the scenery was more beautiful than any hollywood movie, and with no CG required. Where´s Samuel L? At 12 we are stopped and searched by the Colombian military - looking for guns I think. Luckily I had been advised not to wear my Cuban military hat - could have got me into trouble as a guerilla! 20 minutes later and there´s no more road. We had a sandwich lunch then headed off into the mountains. We hiked for about an hour before stopping at a spring to swim and rest. At 6pm we reached our resting point for the night. The views along the way were amazing, and photos don´t do them justice. I could never get bored of looking at the mist-hewn mountains, with many colours as the layers of peaks disappeared into the dusty sky. Small cottages and farms were occasionally visible on top of an adjacent hill tops. Our porters were 6 donkeys, and with sweat pouring down my face I felt sorry for them carrying all our food. Once we had stopped and had dinner I wrote in my diary under candlelight between our hammocks and a small wood fire.
The 2nd day was more hard work - up, up and up. Very sweaty. The food is amazing on this trek though! This morning Chris and some others also went to see a local farmer who makes cocaine. Coca plants are everywhere here and the paramilitary see to it that plenty is grown as they use the money for funding. Chris got some photos on my camera on the condition that he didn´t photograph the guy´s face. We also had some downhill trekking this day which was a relief! But still hard work as it was very steep. This seemed a harder day than the first - I have no idea how the mules managed. At the top our accomodation has running water and even toilet paper! How amazing 2 days into the jungle! After staking my claim on a hammock we went swimming nearby. It was so awesome, with natural waterfalls and big rocks to jump in from. We even had a little of the local 'erb to chill out to. Fantastic.
The 3rd day. More sweaty trekking! The guys here who have been to Macchu Pichu tell me this is nothing compared to the inca trail! Doh! Lots of hiking - always up or down, never flat, and wading across rivers - my waterproof boots are very god at keeping water IN as well as out it seems. And then finally we have hundreds and hundreds of very steep, very slippy steps up from the river to the lost city itself. Excitement grows as we are getting closer. Wow. A mystifying view from the city itself! I can´t describe the feeling of completing the trek up here and seeing the view. I hope the inca trail will be the same and more. Different coloured flowers lined the side of the final ancient mossy 'stairs' that seemed to go on forever, before opening inot the foundations where ancient houses once stood. We stared in awe at the view from the top, clouds only just above our heads cloaking nearby peaks. Light rain fell and thunder rolled heavily around the mountains.
That night we slept on mattresses - a nice change from hammocks. The stars were very bright, and Chris showed me Orion and his belt. We also saw fireflies everywhere tonight. They are so beautiful.
The 4th day was spent at the city itself. Our guide (the awesome Edwin Rey) gave us a full tour, and also explained the story of the tourists who were kidnapped and held hostage by guerillas in 2003 for 101 days. Thankfully it´s much safer now due to increased paramilitary presence.
The 5th day was the hardest of all. We had to cover 14km in the one day, retracing our steps. All the downhill parts of day 3 were now uphill. Oh my god it just seemed to go on forever. At lunch we said goodbye to some of the group, taking a different route back with an extra night stop. We stopped to swim and wash at our favourite waterfalls - fantastic again - then once again we headed up and up, until our bodies almost refused to walk anymore. Every time we thought we were nearing the tip of a mountain we rounded a corner and found more hill to climb. With sheer drops to the left and right we didn´t understand how the mountain could get any higher. This all made the earlier 7 river crossings seem easy peasy. Finally we arrived at the day 1 hut. The 3 of us, plus our friends Oli and Mickey made it an hour ahead of the others. Huzzah! After dinner I fell straight asleep as I was utterly shattered.
The final day! Ahhh a good long sleep that way. With Oli and Mickey as our pacemakers we set off for the finish and we were there by 10:30am. All our clothes were digusting, dusty and smely. Mickey (the lovely Israeli that he is) bought us all a beer at the finish. The others arrived another hour later. We managed to see scorpions, lizards and ant highways along the way that morning. But now we were hungry and couldn´t wait for a shower! Ahh the fun bus to take us back to Santa Marta. Perfecto.
